A trip to Palermo: what to see and do

Brimming with energy, contrasts and contradictions, Palermo is not only the main city of Sicily but also the beating heart of the Mediterranean, and has been for centuries. To truly appreciate its most authentic soul, it’s best to let the city win you over slowly: through its chaotic streets, its lavish churches, the raw charm of its markets, and the grandeur of its aristocratic palaces. Here’s what to do and see in Palermo.

Crossroads of cultures

Founded by the Phoenicians in the 9th century BC, the city has long stood as a crossroads of cultures. Over the centuries, its natural harbour has drawn in Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs and Normans. Each left an enduring imprint, still visible today in the city’s rich cultural and artistic tapestry.

Visit the historic markets

Where does the city’s most authentic soul reside? In its historic markets. Visiting one (or all) of them is an experience not to be missed. The three main markets are open from Monday to Saturday.

Il Capo dates back to the Arab-Norman era and feels much like a souk. It specialises in local produce and fresh fish, and it’s where locals come each morning to shop for the day’s meals. Ballarò is the largest of the three, while Vucciria is the most famous, and the go-to spot for sampling excellent street food. It’s also a great place to visit in the evening, when the market stalls are packed away and the bars and eateries come to life.

Through history along Via Vittorio Emanuele

Locals in Palermo call it Il Cassaro, and it stretches from Porta Nuova all the way down to the sea. Walking along Via Vittorio Emanuele means quite literally stepping through the city’s layered history. Begin your journey at the crossroads with Via Roma, close to the bustling Vucciria market. Just a short stroll ahead lies the baroque Fontana Pretoria, known to Palermitani as Piazza della Vergogna – the “Square of Shame” – a nickname inspired by the abundance of statues adorning the fountain.

Nearby, you’ll find three remarkable churches: Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio (also known as La Martorana), San Cataldo, and Santa Caterina.

As you continue, you’ll reach the Quattro Canti, or Piazza Vigliena – a striking Baroque junction where four buildings form a perfect crossroads, each decorated with fountains, symbolic representations of the seasons, and statues of Palermo’s patron saints. It’s also known as the Teatro del Sole or “Theatre of the Sun”, as at any point in the day, at least one of its facades is bathed in sunlight.

Following the road further, you’ll come to the grand Cathedral of Palermo, constructed in 1184 atop the remains of a former mosque, which itself had been built over an earlier Christian church. Inside, visitors can explore the royal tombs, admire the treasure chamber and crypts, and climb to the panoramic rooftop for sweeping views over the city.

Palace of the Normans and the Palatine Chapel

At the end of Via Vittorio Emanuele stands the Palace of the Normans, now home to the Sicilian Regional Assembly and guardian of the astonishing Palatine Chapel. Commissioned by Roger II in the 12th century, the chapel is a true masterpiece of Byzantine art, renowned for its breathtaking golden mosaics. The admission ticket also grants access to the royal apartments and the surrounding gardens.

Palermo’s most stunning noble palaces

Wandering through the city, visitors will come across a wealth of grand residences once home to Palermo’s aristocracy. Among the highlights is Palazzo Mirto, a showcase of refined elegance, adorned with precious tapestries, Murano glass chandeliers, and Chinese lacquer panels. Then there’s Palazzo Chiaramonte Steri, built in the 14th century and later used as the seat of the Inquisition in the 1600s—its prison cells still bear the original graffiti and drawings left by inmates. Palazzo Asmundo, a splendid Baroque building, boasts one of the finest views over the Cathedral. Overlooking the Passeggiata delle Cattive, Palazzo Butera rises above a stretch of the city’s ancient walls. Finally, La Zisa, once the summer retreat of the Norman kings, stands as a refined example of Islamic-influenced architecture.

The most spectacular churches in Palermo

Palermo is home to an astonishing number of churches, but a few truly stand out. Among them is Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, a Baroque masterpiece boasting a panoramic terrace with breathtaking views over the city. The adjacent cloister is also worth a visit, it’s where the nuns still prepare traditional Sicilian sweets.

Then there’s Santa Maria dello Spasimo, a striking 16th-century church that was never completed. Its missing roof gives it an almost surreal atmosphere, and today it serves as a venue for jazz concerts and art exhibitions. Nestled in the heart of one of Palermo’s most lively and chaotic working-class neighbourhoods, it remains an unexpected haven of tranquillity.

Standing side by side, La Martorana and San Cataldo are two remarkable Norman churches. La Martorana is celebrated for its golden mosaics and Baroque stuccoes, while San Cataldo, with its distinctive trio of red domes, recalls the form of a small mosque.

The Church of the Gesù, also known as Casa Professa, is another Baroque marvel, lavishly decorated with polychrome marble and elaborate stucco work. Stepping inside is an overwhelming experience; it takes a moment to find your bearings amid the dazzling interior.

Finally, the Oratories of San Lorenzo and San Domenico offer the chance to admire the exquisite stuccoes by Giacomo Serpotta, some of the finest examples of decorative sculpture in the city.

Discovering the Kalsa

In recent years, the once working-class district of Kalsa has become one of Palermo’s trendiest neighbourhoods. By day, it retains its authentic, lived-in charm; by night, it comes to life, brimming with lively bars and cafés popular with the city’s younger crowd. After a sunset stroll along the Yasser Arafat seafront promenade, it’s the perfect spot to stop for a drink.

An evening at the Teatro Massimo

The Teatro Massimo is Italy’s largest opera house, built in the late 19th century in grand neoclassical style. Renowned for its exceptional acoustics, it’s well worth experiencing a live performance here. Alternatively, guided tours offer a behind-the-scenes look at the theatre, including access to the backstage area and the panoramic rooftop terrace.

The Capuchin Catacombs

Arguably Palermo’s most unsettling attraction—yet undeniably captivating. The catacombs are home to around 8,000 mummified bodies, some of them dressed in period clothing and remarkably well preserved. Originally established in the 16th century as a private burial site for Capuchin friars, by the 18th century they had become a sought-after final resting place for the city’s aristocracy.

A breath of fresh air at the Botanical Garden

If Palermo’s energy becomes overwhelming, retreat to the calm of its Botanical Garden, where towering trees and exotic plants offer welcome respite. In the summer months, the garden features an open-air bar, perfect for enjoying an aperitivo among cacti and tropical blooms. Founded in the 18th century, it was designed by the French architect Léon Dufourny and remains a marvel to this day.

The best museums in Palermo

The Museo Archeologico Regionale Antonio Salinas, set within a former convent, boasts an outstanding collection of Greek and Roman artefacts. If time is limited, this is the one not to miss. The Gallery of Modern Art (GAM) features Sicilian and international works dating from the 18th century onwards. Housed in a Gothic-Catalan style building, Palazzo Abatellis presents the renowned fresco Triumph of Death and Antonello da Messina’s Annunciata. And then there’s Stanze al Genio, a small private museum tucked inside an 18th-century palazzo, home to a remarkable collection of Italian majolica spanning the 16th to the 20th century.

Where to enjoy breathtaking views

For sweeping views over the city, head up the tower of San Giuseppe Cafasso Church or climb to the dome of Santa Caterina d’Alessandria. The Sanctuary of Santa Rosalia, perched on Monte Pellegrino, offers an unrivalled panorama stretching across the whole of Palermo.

Mondello, a seaside escape

Palermo doesn’t have any central beaches, so for a dip in the sea or a spot of sunbathing, make your way to Mondello. Just half an hour away by bus, this long stretch of white sand and crystal-clear water is a favourite with locals and visitors alike. It gets busy in summer, but it’s still unmissable.

Article translated by Agnese Giardini