Cathedral of Monreale, an architectural gem just outside Palermo

Sicily is a land of singular beauty, celebrated for both its landscape and its rich artistic and cultural heritage. Some of its treasures, however, are less widely known, among them the Cathedral of Monreale, commissioned by William II between 1172 and 1176. Also referred to as the Basilica of Santa Maria la Nuova, the cathedral stands in the city of Monreale, which forms part of the Palermo metropolitan area. Nestled within the Conca d’Oro at an elevation of around 310 metres above sea level, the city was founded by the Normans in the 12th century, close to the former Arab settlement of Balhara, at the foot of Mount Caputo.

The history of Monreale Cathedral

According to legend, the Virgin Mary appeared in a dream to King William II, who had nodded off after a hunting expedition, urging him to build a temple in her honour. In reality, the construction of Monreale Cathedral was rooted in a political rivalry between the young monarch and the Archbishop of Palermo, Gualtiero Offamilio.

William II ascended to the throne at just thirteen, following the assassination of his father, William I. During his minority, Gualtiero served as his tutor, amassing considerable influence and becoming a threat to both the Crown and the Papacy. Once the king came of age, tensions flared between the royal court and the Palermitan Church.

This power struggle evolved into a so-called “battle of monuments”. In 1174, William II ordered the construction of the Monreale complex, completing the cathedral in 1176 and entrusting it to the Benedictines. In 1183, Pope Lucius III, a staunch ally of the king, elevated Monreale to the rank of archiepiscopal see, stripping territory and income from the Archbishopric of Palermo.

In retaliation, Gualtiero demolished the old cathedral to erect a grander one, which was consecrated in 1185. Nevertheless, it was William II who ultimately triumphed in this architectural contest. As part of a wider scheme that also encompassed a royal palace and a monastery, Monreale Cathedral was consecrated on 25 April 1267 by Bishop Rudolph and dedicated to the Nativity of the Virgin Mary.

What to see

One of the most striking features of Monreale Cathedral is its extraordinary mosaics, the largest of their kind in Italy. Inside the Basilica stands an organ with no fewer than ten thousand pipes. From Piazza Guglielmo II, the façade can be admired, framed by two towers in the distinctive Norman style. The frontage is enhanced by an 18th-century portico with three arches, which rise above a balustrade topped by interlaced arches in limestone and lava stone, a decorative motif reflecting Arab influence. The cathedral’s bronze portal was crafted in 1186 by Bonanno Pisano. From Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, visitors can view the 16th-century portal by Giandomenico and Fazio Gagini. The exterior of the basilica is also notable for its three apses.

Inside, the cathedral is arranged in three naves separated by 18 columns dating from the Roman era. Characteristic Byzantine features include the carved pulvini, the square-plan transept crossing and, above all, the dazzling mosaic decoration. The cathedral also houses a treasury, accessed through the Chapel of the Crucifix, containing a Baroque reliquary known as the “Sacred Thorn” alongside other precious relics.

The Chapel of the Crucifix, completed in 1686, is a remarkable example of Sicilian Baroque. Its allegorical images foretell the sacrifice of Christ, while the intricate marble inlays on the floor depict the prophet Jonah being cast into the sea and swallowed by a great fish.

The north transept is a superb example of Norman floor mosaic art. Here, the original layout can still be appreciated, with its geometric patterns, gold tesserae embedded in the flooring, and stylised animal motifs. This space is also the final resting place of Margaret of Navarre, mother of King William II, and his sons Roger and Henry. In 1270, at the request of Charles of Anjou, the heart and entrails of Saint Louis IX were also brought here.

The Diocesan Museum, housed within the Archbishop’s Palace, occupies three floors and contains an exceptional collection of Christian art.

Visiting hours and ticket prices

Monreale Cathedral is open to visitors from Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m. to 12:45 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. to 5 p.m. On Sundays and public holidays, opening hours are from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. The Diocesan Museum is open Monday to Saturday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. On Sundays, the Roano Chapel alone can be visited from 3 p.m. to 5 p.m.

Ticket prices:

• Diocesan Museum + North Transept + Roano Chapel: €4
• Reduced rate for groups (over 20 people) and visitors aged 65+: €3
• Roano Chapel + North Transept + Terraces: €5
• Roano Chapel + North Transept: €2.50
• Roano Chapel + North Transept + Terraces + Museum: €7

Article translated by Agnese Giardini

Tag

Curiosities

Travel

Subscribe to our newsletter Subscribe to our newsletter to keep up to date with our latest news Subscribe with your email address to receive the latest news, updates and practical tips from the real estate world directly in your inbox

Subscribe