Exploring the Royal Palace of Portici: location, how to get there, what to see, history, and fascinating facts

The Royal Palace of Portici is one of the architectural gems of the historic Golden Mile, an area of great prestige where, in the 18th century, the nobility built the so-called Vesuvian Villas of the Golden Mile. This majestic palace stands between the slopes of Mount Vesuvius and the Granatello marina, enjoying a prime location with breathtaking views over the Gulf of Naples.

Who built the Royal Palace of Portici?

The Royal Palace of Portici is one of the most significant symbols of Bourbon grandeur. It was commissioned in 1738 by Charles of Bourbon and Maria Amalia of Saxony. During the palace’s construction, extraordinary artefacts from the buried cities of Herculaneum and Pompeii were unearthed. These discoveries were exhibited within the newly built palace, giving rise to the Herculanense Museum (Museo Ercolanense).

In 1799, during the Neapolitan Revolution, the royal court fled to Palermo, taking 60 crates of artefacts with them. When they were forced to flee again in 1806, a further 11 crates were transferred, while Joseph Bonaparte ordered that the remaining artefacts be moved to the Museum of Naples. It was only in 1818, following the Bourbon court’s return to Naples, that the crates stored in Palermo were transferred to the newly established Museum of Naples, marking the end of the Museum of Portici.

During the Napoleonic era, General Joachim Murat had the palace entirely refurnished, equipping it with opulent French furniture. Later, under Ferdinand II of Bourbon, the complex was linked to the city of Naples via the Naples-Portici railway.

Today, the Royal Palace of Portici is home to various attractions, temporary exhibitions, and cultural events. It also houses the Faculty of Agriculture of the University of Naples Federico II and several museums.

History and curiosities of the Royal Palace of Portici

The Royal Palace of Portici was founded almost by chance when King Charles of Bourbon and Queen Maria Amalia, caught in a storm, sought refuge near Villa d’Elbeouf. Enchanted by the beauty of the location, they decided to build a summer residence there. Construction began in 1738 under the supervision of engineer Medrano, later taken over by architect Canevari, and was completed in 1742.

The palace was built on land acquired from various noble families, including the Count of Palena and the Prince of Santobuono. Even at the time, it was a grand structure with expansive terraces and balustrades, surrounded by vast parklands, orchards, woodland, and a hunting reserve. Additionally, the complex housed the world’s first covered riding track, the Royal Galoppatoio.

The Royal Palace of Portici conceals several hidden treasures, including the Palatine Chapel, built in 1749, which features an organ once played by a young Mozart and an altar adorned with red marble columns from Herculaneum. Meanwhile, the Ercolanense Museum, commissioned by Charles to preserve the artefacts unearthed at Herculaneum, cemented Portici’s reputation as a distinguished stop on the Grand Tour.

The Royal Palace of Portici and the Vesuvian Villas of the Golden Mile

The excavations at Herculaneum and the construction of the Royal Palace of Portici spurred the development of numerous historic residences and lavish summer villas in the surrounding area and along the coastline. These residences, known as the Vesuvian Villas of the Golden Mile, were built to accommodate members of the royal court who could not be housed within the new palace.

The Vesuvian Villas comprise a collection of 122 buildings, constructed between the 18th and 19th centuries across the territories between Naples and Torre del Greco, an area historically referred to as the Golden Mile, as well as in the surrounding districts. Today, these villas are listed as monumental heritage sites and are overseen by the Ente per le Ville Vesuviane, an organisation established under Law No. 578 of 1971. In 2009, a decree issued by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage changed its legal status, transforming it into a foundation known as the Fondazione Ente Ville Vesuviane.

Four of the villas fall under the direct management and protection of the foundation: Villa Campolieto, the Real Villa della Favorita, Villa delle Ginestre, and Villa Ruggiero.

What to see today at the Royal Palace of Portici

Today, the monumental complex is safeguarded by Federico II University and the Department of Agriculture, ensuring the preservation of this historic Bourbon site. The Royal Palace is open to visitors and offers a wealth of history, archaeological finds, and connections to nearby archaeological sites and attractions.

Here’s what you can explore:

• The open spaces of the Royal Park, featuring scenic trails immersed in Mediterranean flora;
• The Botanical Garden;
• The palace interiors, with frescoed halls, the Royal Apartment, and the Herculaneum Museum, which houses an extensive collection of archaeological artefacts from Herculaneum and Pompeii;
• Guided tours, including access to the Chinese Room and the historic library.

Particularly noteworthy are the Bosco Superiore, originally a royal hunting ground, and the Bosco Inferiore, which extends towards the sea. This green oasis creates a unique setting where nature and cultural heritage blend seamlessly.

The Royal Palace of Portici has played a significant role in both history and science. In 2011, the MUSA (Museum of Agricultural Sciences) was established, followed by the Department of Agriculture in 2013-2014. The site hosts a remarkable collection of botanical and mineralogical specimens, scientific instruments, and agricultural machinery, amassed over the years by the School of Agriculture. Additionally, the palace serves as a centre for research and innovation, housing institutions such as ENEA, CNR, and the Marine Turtle Research Centre.

How to get to the Royal Palace of Portici

The Royal Palace enjoys a strategic location, well connected by transport links and featuring on-site parking. Here’s how to reach it:

• By car from the north: Take the A3 Naples-Salerno motorway and exit at Portici.
• By car from the south: Exit at Ercolano Scavi and follow the signs for Portici.
• By train: Take the Naples-Salerno railway line, alight at Portici-Ercolano station, and walk 400 metres to the palace.
• By Circumvesuviana train: Alight at Portici Via Libertà and enter the palace grounds via Bosco Superiore.

Article translated by Agnese Giardini

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